Panajachel & Chichicastenango

How to get there

Take the Pan-American Highway (CA-1) to the Los Encuentros junction, 127 km. from Guatemala City. Turn north to go to Chichicastenango, another 18 km. to go Panajachel, turn south at km. 130 of CA-1 and drive 17 km. via Sololá.

This region is full of indian towns which thrive in a beautiful landscape formed by mountains, and valleys with forests and farming plots.

Atlitlán

Undoubtedly Atitlán's main attraction is the magnificent lake surrounded by the volcanoes Tolimán, Atitlán, and San Pedro. The lake was formed thousands of years ago after several volcanic explosions formed an enormous hole known as a caldera.
Several viewpoints on the road to Atitlán give nice views of the lake and the volcanoes from different angles and from different heights. Before traveling down to the lake, the road passes through Sololá, where a large and lively market is held beside the colonial church on Tuesday and Fridays.
Apart from the beautiful natural scenery, the towns around the lake are attractive by them selves. Half of the towns are inhabited by people of Tzutujil ascent while the other half is inhabited by people of Cakchiquel ascent. Every town offers at least simple food and lodging and the churches, plazas, and markets are among the preferred sites. Panajachel holds most of the tourism services and it is famous for its night life and the always busy Santander street. San Marcos, San Pablo, Santa Cruz, Santa Catarina Polopó, and San Antonio Palopó offer beautiful views of the lake and the volcanoes. Hot springs located between San Antonio and Santa Catarina Palopó are a favorite spot for swimmers, San Lucas Tolimán and Santiago Atitlán are located on two breathtaking bays. Santiago is known for the cult to Maximón, a saint with a mixture of Christian, traditional Maya, and magic rituals. Maximón is worshiped at the house of the brotherhood head, the rituals include the use of colored candles, liquor, and tabacco, Since Maximón is not allowed into the Catholic church, its worshipers have carved a representation of Maximón on the main altar of the church.

Xocomil

One of the most famous and feared features of the beautiful Atitlán lake are the strong winds known as Xocomil. Xocomil is formed when hot air from the Pacific Coast bumps into the cold air from the highlands forming strong whirlwinds. It is believed that the name Xocomil is derived from the Tz'utujil and Kaqchikel languages which are spoken in the lake's region. In these languages "xocom" means to pick up and "ji" are the sins, so the wind is believed to pick up and drown in the lake the sins of the local people. From an esoteric point of view, Xocomil is the wind picks up and disappears sin. From a reality point of view, Xocomil must be feared since it is capable of overturning boals. Every day, strong winds account for turbulent waters between three and five in the afternoon. Although this winds are also called Xocomil, they are only a small scale versions of the real Xocomil which accoursj only a few times a year. If you take a boat trip during the afternoon be ready for a wet and bumpy ride and, just in case, make sure you have enough life vests on the boat.

Santiago Atitlán

Situated between three dormant volcanoes, on the south shore of Lake Atitlán. This is home to the Tz'utujil Maya and is the largest Indigenous village in Mesoamerica In many ways the residents continue to lives as they have for centuries- speaking their distinct Mayan dialect, hand weaving their colorful clothes, fishing in dug out canoes, tending their plots of corn and beans on the rocky slopes of the volcanoes, and observing the ceremonies and rituals of their own religion.

The Tz'utujil women are especially well known for their fine weaving and embroidery. The white and purple-striped hand woven güipiles (loose blouses) are adorned with bright birds and flowers, as are the men's mid-calf trousers.  Many of the older women continue to wear the xq'ab' - a long, halo like, strip of cloth wrapped tightly around their head. Near the Municipal pier is the Cojolya Association of Women Weaver's Museum.

There are numerous galleries on the walk from the public dock to the town market. Here you will find some of the finest artisans in the region. Santiago's many talented artists offer a broad array of folk and naif paintings, weavings, beadwork, carved wooden boxes, puzzles and sculptures made from tropical hardwoods. The Atitecos are some of the finest stone masons in the country and any visitor should take a good look at the artfully constructed stone houses and public stone buildings.

A visit to the bustling market is a must. Market days are Friday, Saturday and Tuesday. The Catholic Church, founded in 1547, is another unique experience: a statue of the baby Jesus is found near the atter wearing the typical costume of the Atitecos. Maxi Mon is the smoking and drinking idol, who blends both Mayan and Christian beliefs. Dressed in colorful scarves and fed aguardiente by his faithful attendants, this is something you will definitely see nowhere else.

Other activities for the active traveler include: horseback rides to the nearby cloud  forest, hiking, including climbing the volcanoes, mountain biking, padding dugout cayucos or canoes, weaving lessons, cultural walking tours led by the Enghish-speaking Tzutujil guide, Dolores Ratzan. For the less active, you can always hire a power boat for a lake tour, find beautiful spot on the lake shore and watch  the sun set behind the fishermen in their cayucos or sit on a park bench observing the activities of this village.

Visitors arrive either by the many ferries from Panajachel or by the paved road from San Lucas Toliman. There are plenty jof restaurants to serve you. You do not need to limit your visit to a day trip. There is a range of hotel accommodations that include a simple hospedaje (pension Rosita), two modest hotels (Chi Nim Ya & Hotel Tz'utujil) and two very comfortable hotels with restaurants serving international cuisine (Hotel Bambu & Posada de Santiago). Cross the water and step back in time.
Initially, Chichicastenango became famous due to its enormous and varied market which is held on thursdays and Sundays. Nowadays it has flourished into a tourism center with all types of services including food, lodging, and transportation. The church and the calvary, where ancient Maya rites are mixed with modern day Christian practices, are among the favorite spots in town. On the main streets in town with members of the brotherhood in full regalia. The procession culminates in church, where a mass with marimba music is celebrated. Pascual Abaj is an altar located on the outskirts of town, where Maya rituals are carried out.

Chichicastenango may be the starting point to visit other destination in the Quiché area. The town of Santa Cruz del Quiché is located near "Chichi", and close to it lie the ruins of Gumarcaaj or Utatlán, capital of the Quiché chiefdom. Traveling to the North, one reaches the semidesertic  valley where Sacapulas is located, Sacapulas is a small town where "black salt" is produced by drying out water extracted from the streams which drain into the Chixoy or Black river.  The enormous Cuchumatanes mountain range rises beyond Sacapulas.  On the intermontane valleys of the Cuchumatanes lie the picturesque towns of Nebaj, Chajul, and Cotzal, which form the so called Ixil Triangle.

Market in Chichicastenango

Market in Chichicastenango takes place on Thursdays and Sundays.  It is one of the largest and most varied markets in Guatemala and it is one of the most important tourism site.  The market in "Chichi" owes its great variety of products to a privileged geographical location: it is a middle spot between the Cuchumatanes mountains and the Zona Reina up North, the central highlands to the East, the highlands to the West, and the Atitlán and coastal region to the South.

For tourists the main attractions are the handicrafts posts.  The market also offers the possibility to appreciate a great variety of typical costumes, since businessmen from all over the country meet at the market pace.  For many foreigner the market is the only chance to get to know many products such as tropical fruits, black salt from Sacapulas, coarse brown sugar, and a great variety of herbs used in typical Guatemalan cuisine.

Several tour operators have day trips to see the market coming from Antigua or Atitlan. For those who want to stay longer, Chichi, has a great variety of hotels and restaurants.
Although Chichi's market is the most famous one, it is not the only large market in Guatemala's highlands. Markets in Sololá (Tues. & Fridays) and San Francisco El Alto, Totonicapán (Fridays) are very large, varied, and have been recently discovered by tourism.

Santa Catarina Palopó

A small, hillside town 4 kilometers from Panajachel, easily accessible by car.

San Lucas Tolimán

15 minute boat ride from Panajachel. Beautiful village with indigenous population.

Santiago Atitlán

One of the towns around the lake, Santiago offers colorful textiles, hand-carved wooden crafts and fascinating traditions.

Sololá

Founded in 154, it is the capital of the department de Sololá.

Church of Santo Tomás

Whitewashed colonial structure built circa 1540. On the church steps people pray and burn incense. Inside they offer candles and flowers on a stone floor strewn with pine needles.

Pascual Abaj

Stone idol located on a hilltop about a half mile from town where Maya People from the region say prayers.

Iximche

Ruins of former Maya-Cakchiquel capital, where the native people rebelled against Spanish conquistadors, found  just outside Tecpán. There are fou large plazas and remains of painted murals on some of the stucco walls.
Nebaj is know for the beautiful traditional clothing worn by both men and women. Women wear a huipil bearing red and white geometric designs with a heavy red skirt , while men wear white pants and red jackets. Surrounding area offers waterfalls and forests for hiking.